To explain how my birds are prepared prior to a roll, I must have a few disclaimers. The first and foremost understanding is that each and every family of birds react differently to the various methods in which a fancier handles his loft. Each of us use a variety of medications and an assortment of feeds which affects the birds. I am about to explain how I do it and what works for me. Understand that there is not a full proof method, but this is what works for me.

My method was derived from the conversations and visits to lofts of some of the best and well known parlor breeders in our club. Originally, I purchased birds from John Kirchner and he was more than helpful in explaining how he worked with his birds prior to the show date. Numerous emails from Paul Gamino, who probably has seen and experimented more from his years of trial and error than any of us combined, aided to my thought process. Finally, many visits to Bill Mustin, Jr., were beneficial because of Bill’s willingness to actually demonstrate and go into detail. I thank everyone that has help me become successful and hopefully, this article will help others to have the great emotional rush that one receives when a bird is rolling beyond that 100 foot mark.

Before you read any farther, just like any other athlete, the parlor rollers must be in the best possible condition that you can get it in. Good feed and water each and everyday, with a dry and airy loft will develop the birds to be at their peak.

The initial question and debate seems to be … at what age should you roll a parlor? My answer is simple. When the bird is developed!! I prefer a young bird that has moulted at least 7 to 9 flights and has developed muscle tone in it’s body. The family of birds that I raise will practically roll out of the nest. But they will roll a greater distance when they are mature. By waiting and having patience, you will watch the bird reach the high point of it’s condition and maturity. This is the time to roll them. Too early in their stage of development will result in poor results at the roll. Much like a eighteen year old running against an eight year old boy. I feel, like humans or any other competitive animals or athlete, if you wait until you are past your prime, the body will break down and not have the strength that the young bird has. Again, like an eighteen year old running against a forty year old. There are always exceptions to the rule.

From the time that the youngsters leave the nest, go to their pens, I rarely handle them. About the only reason that I do, would be to put the proper sexes together. The theory is that each parlor has only a couple long rolls in it (of course, there are a few exceptions to this rule). We are trying to get the bird to roll it’s longest distance at the time of the show. After the bird learns to stop, they will not roll the long rolls again. Hence, a bird certifies over 100 feet at a show and you buy it. When you get home and try to roll it, it will only go 50 feet and you cannot understand why. Once they learn to stop, they rarely roll long again. Also, we can accept that you have received a bird that rolled 35 feet, and you have to realize that the bird may not have reached it peak or it has rolled out in the loft and learned to stop. All this must be considered when you decide to acquire new stock. The background of the bird’s breeding has got to be your first consideration.

Now, let’s say that the roll is in 10 days. I feel that this is more than adequate time. My young birds are separated into hens and cocks in two different pens. I will go through the birds and put a red plastic band on it’s bandless leg, which indicates to me that I feel this bird is mature enough to “lock-in” for the roll. Each bird is taken out of it’s pen daily and put on the ground in an attempt to roll. Most youngsters will just flop around or flip over a couple times. This progresses with each day. If a bird takes off rolling, in a controlled manner, I will chase it and pick it up before it stops. This is the important part of “locking” them in. Once I feel that the bird is “locked in”, I will take the red plastic band off and put a green band on. I do not roll these birds again until it is show time. I have no idea what the performance of the bird will be at the time of competition.

Now, without getting into any controversy, the next question that you ask (and this could be a topic of another article) would be how often do you roll a bird. I will roll a bird again if its last distance is longer than the previous one. That does not mean from start to stop. That means longer. In other words, if the bird does not roll in a straight line, I note that. As long as the bird progress, it rolls again. I had a bird last year that certified 5 times, because he kept going further. One note here, once a bird “locks in”, I do not roll it between shows.

This is my way, I hope it works for you!!

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